Tbilisi On My Mind--Rustavi Choir--Traditional Psychedelic Choral Music from Georgia

Georgia  (aka საქართველო) is a country located on the cusp of Europe and Asia which I visited on a Russian tour in the 1980's, when Georgia was one of the 16 SSRs in the former Soviet Confederation. When I visited Russia I had a good idea what to expect in St Petersburg (then Leningrad) and Moscow. But the Caucasian countries were a complete wild card. I went in knowing the itinerary only, and didn't know anything at all about Georgia (or Armenia, which I also visited). For most Americans, these places did not even exist. Overall, I really enjoyed my time in these places and was struck by their distinct cultures. I know that economically and politically there was a lot of turmoil in these areas, as there still are in the present day. When I went on my trip the Soviet Union still existed, though attempting economic reform through Gorbachev's Perestroika program. We wound up seeing a lot of capitalistic agricultural markets on this trip.

I did not realize until I got to Georgia that it was really like being in a separate and distinct country. Though I saw Soviet troops patrolling, it was a Georgian country and did not in any way bear resemblance to the places I had been to. I thought Tbilisi was a beautiful city, at least in the central area, with buildings perched on a cliff overhanging the Kura river, the ornate facade of the opera house, wrought balconies on narrow cobble stoned streets connected by grape vines running from one side to the other. In addition to the small domed buildings which turned out to be bath houses, I remember seeing mosques and synagogues downtown in addition to churches. And this was what was supposed to be an atheist state. I remember the crumbling ancient city walls. But I do know that there was little love for the Russian presence then. And though they are independent today, their giant neighbor to the North is still an overwhelming presence.

This is an ancient culture with long standing traditions. They have their own language which has its own distinct characters. They have their own branch of the Orthodox Church and the country was Christianized in the 4th century A.D before almost any other countries. I have to say that their cuisine is fantastic--it was one of the highlights of my trip to the Soviet Union. They also made some pretty good white wine as I recall. I even made the cheese bread Khachapuri the other night for dinner. A bit heavy but still delicious. It's nice to see a small place like this being able to hold on to who they are in this increasingly globalized world.

My trip piqued my interest enough to invest in a Cd by The Rustavi Choir entitled Georgian Voices. They are a male polyphonic choir and I find the music to be arrestingly beautiful and quite psychedelic, in a totally old school religious way. Listening to a record like this affects my consciousness. It gives me a strange buzz. I start imagining I am in a church in the 4th century, or listening to old tales around the table after a huge banquet. Mostly the music is unaccompanied here and surprisingly the music is relatively varied. The people who decided what the contents of the album made a conscious effort to include different types of songs that originated in different areas of the country. Some of the songs contain ululating lead vocals with the rest of the choir acting in counterpoint. Also they have people singing in very low voices and high voices at the same time.The combination of these sounds creates a fairly amazing effect. You can't help but feel that this music is like the lifeblood of a people--when you listen to this it's like the singers are saying, "this is who we are".

Some songs are deeply religious such as the opening song Tsmindao Chmerto "Holy God". Other songs are vibrant and forceful like Odoya. Just judging from the descriptions listed, music must have been incorporated into all facets of traditional life in Georgia. Working, plowing, traveling, eating, praying,marrying--all represented in song on this Cd alone. Mival Guriashi "Going to Guria" is a quiet ballad with a great deal of human tenderness. Ali-Pasha is a real psychedelic gem, with ululations and buzzy harmonies. For some reason the harmonies remind me a little of the Kinman brothers (Rank and File, Dils). Orovela is a sad plaintive lament, basically a solo performance. When you hear a song like Chakrulo it seems like time is standing still. The finale Guruli Naduri, is a simply brilliant kitchen sink number, where seemingly a lot of the disparate elements of the Georgian tradition are conveniently incorporated in one number. An interesting album I think, not for everyone, but another fairly ballsy release for the eclectic Nonesuch label. I mean I'm not hearing a hit single here.